Czech Republic tips courtesy of former Prague resident and Czech national, Ms. J.O. (whose full name is not included as she is conscientious about protecting her privacy).
In her own words:
Prague
is now packed full not just of tourists but of restaurants, cafes, and bars …
some are great, some are okay, many are forgettable. Some legendary places
(like Slavia café) have been over-run by tourists but may still be worth a
stop. The places below are ones that my
family and friends love, and I have really enjoyed them too. Plus they are in
areas worth seeing.
Restaurants
Classic
Czech dishes include vepro-knedlo-zelo (short for
veprove, knedliky, zeli à pork, dumplings and
sauerkraut) and svickova à beef in a special gravy
with a dab of cranberry sauce and dumplings. And then there are the fruit
dumplings … to die for! – but generally a seasonal summer dish.
Posezeni u Ciriny – Navratilova 6, Praha 1
(small street, tucked away) tel. +420 2 2223 170
The
owner, Cirina, used to cook for Vaclav Havel, and apparently has put out
cookbooks (or a TV show?). Up-scale-ish, traditional-ish, dark-ish interior,
very pleasant – this is where we hold our family get-togethers. Better to
reserve, just to be sure.
Grosseto Marina Ristorante – Alsovo nabrezi, Praha 1
(on a boat)
Definitely
reserve well in advance – and you may need to go at an earlier-than-usual hour
if you want a table by the window. Very stylish, stunning views, and good food
and service.
Las Adelitas -- Americka 8, Praha 2
(Vinohrady)
Just
around the corner from the wonderful Zanzibar café. Owned and operated by real
live Mexicans (who make a valiant and cute attempt at speaking Czech). The food
was good, but the casual atmosphere and street-side tables (and the Mexicans) –
are really what we loved.
Cafes
Café Savoy – Vitezna 5, Praha 5
Just
across the river from the national theatre and Café Slavia. Not to be confused
with Hotel Savoy which is in a completely different spot (and probably has a
café but not one like this!) This place is gorgeous, with fabulous ceilings. Be
sure to go to the washrooms in the basement, if only to see the pastry chefs at
work in the glass-walled kitchen. Good for breakfast too.
http://www.ambi.cz/ambi_cafesavoy_kontakt_eng.php
Hanavsky Pavilon – Letensky sady 173, Praha
7.
No
idea about the food (or interior). Just sit on their terrace, buy an over-priced coffee, and feast your eyes on Prague below you. One of the best views around.
Easy way to get there is to catch the no. 18 tram at Malostranska metro station
going up the hill, get off at the
first stop at the top, and walk to your right. Then carry on to see the rest of
the park (and more views).
http://www.hanavskypavilon.cz/historie.php?jazyk=en
Café Louvre – Narodni 22, Praha 1 – not
far from Wenceslas square, on the 2nd floor so it’s easy to miss.
Fantastic history, several differently decorated spaces, an overall delight.
http://www.cafelouvre.cz/en/
Zanzibar – Americka 15, Praha 2
Tucked
away on a quiet street/square in the very genteel Vinohrady area. Good for
breakfast too. Just around the corner from Las Adelitas Mexican restaurant and the gorgeous Havlickovy sady park –
which also has a pretty cool café.
http://www.kavarnazanzibar.cz/
Wine bar
Vinoteka us Sv. Vincenta – Liborova 13, Praha 6,
tel. 220 514 440
May
be too far off the beaten path for you – it’s in a residential area a bit
beyond Prague Castle. But it’s a charming place, well-run by nice people. Lots
of wine, but also cold snacks as accompaniments.
http://vinom.eu/wine-catering-VinomWine-4.html
Other spots in Prague
Havlickovy sady – I’d spend a couple of
hours there, having coffee, enjoying the greenspace, and looking at a different
view of Prague.
As
for the Charles bridge: Go there
before 8 am or after 9-10 pm if you want to have a “moment” (which I highly
recommend). Otherwise, you’ll enjoy it with 3,000 of your closest friends.
..and
Prague Castle: Ditto on timing – go
at off hours. I think they close the gates late at night, but I have always
enjoyed walking through after dark, starting from the “top” and then descending
the castle stairs all the way down (gets you very close to Malostranska metro
station).
Day Trips from Prague
Towns: Kutna Hora, Tabor
Chateaux (zamek) &
castles (hrad):
You must visit at least one!
Karlstejn
(hrad) – easy day trip by train. The
other 2 are farther away.
Konopiste
(zamek) – the hunting lodge of Archduke Franz Ferdinand (yup, that guy)
Hluboka
(zamek) – in English style
Outside of Prague
Do not
miss Karlovy Vary (Karlsbad) - just watch out for the Russians…
Zatec - a 1000-year old, walled town known for
producing (and trading) the best hops in the world and …my birthplace. In the
ex-Sudetenland, with a crazy WWII history (it was German-populated until it
wasn’t). There’s a direct bus from Prague (1 h 20 min) – ask your hotel. Now
also home of the temple of hops and beer….
http://chchp.cz/en/hop-and-beer-temple
Your first stop should be the tourism office
in the town hall – on the main square that Kevin knows from the webcam. Pick up
the walking tour maps, and pay 40 crowns to go up the tower to see the town and
surroundings.
The Palacinkarna on the main square has good Czech-style crepes,
and the restaurant in the basement of the Hotel Zlaty Lev (“Golden Lion” - up
the road from the main square) is reasonable. The hotel looks cool too – I hope
to stay there next time. I love Zatec, and it has lots to draw tourists.
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